Toraja village with traditional Tongkonan houses and rice fields in South Sulawesi, Indonesia

Travelling to Tana Toraja with Children: an Honest Family Guide

I am sometimes asked whether Toraja is a good place to visit with children.

My answer is yes — but I would not plan a family trip here in the same way I would plan a holiday in Bali or another resort destination.

Toraja does not have large theme parks or children’s clubs. What it has is something different: mountains, traditional houses, villages, rice fields, local food and a culture that children can discover simply by being here.

The most important thing is to keep the trip comfortable for the youngest person in the family.

The journey is something to think about

For many families, the road from Makassar to Toraja is the hardest part.

It is a long journey, and the road becomes winding as you get into the highlands. Some children sleep through it. Others become carsick or simply get tired of sitting in a car for many hours.

If your children are young, I usually think it is better not to arrive in Toraja and immediately start a full sightseeing programme.

Arrive, have something to eat, let everyone rest, and start properly the next day.

A private car can be especially useful for families because you can stop when you need to. You can stop for a toilet break, a meal, or simply because somebody has had enough of sitting in the car.

If you prefer the bus, that can work too. I would just consider your children’s sleeping habits before choosing an overnight journey.

How old should children be?

There is no particular age that I would say is “the right age” for Toraja.

With babies and toddlers, the main challenge is logistics. Village paths are not always suitable for a stroller, and facilities for small children are more limited than families may be used to at home.

A child carrier can be much more useful than a large stroller.

Children around school age can enjoy the villages, traditional houses, markets, food and countryside. Older children and teenagers often become especially interested when they understand the stories behind what they are seeing.

Teenagers who enjoy photography, history, food or nature can have a wonderful time here.

But every child is different.

You don’t have to visit every burial site

This is something I would discuss with parents before planning the itinerary.

Toraja is well known for its burial traditions, and some places contain coffins, bones and other things that may be difficult for a young child.

There is no rule saying that your children have to see all of them.

If your child is curious and comfortable, we can visit an appropriate site and I can explain what they are seeing.

If your child is frightened by caves, darkness or human remains, there are many other things to do.

I would rather a child remember Toraja as an interesting and welcoming place than remember being forced into a place they were not ready to visit.

What about a funeral?

A funeral is a real family and community event. It is not a performance arranged for tourists.

That is especially important when travelling with children.

If you are invited to attend a ceremony, I would explain to the family what is happening and what you should expect before deciding whether to go.

Parents should also prepare their children.

They may see animals, coffins, large crowds and things they have never seen before.

If you decide to attend, children should stay close to their parents, dress appropriately and understand that this is a serious occasion.

And if you decide that it is not suitable for your children, that is completely fine.

You can have a wonderful Toraja experience without attending a funeral.

What do children usually enjoy?

I find that children often respond well to things that allow them to look, touch, taste or ask questions.

A traditional Tongkonan village can be much more interesting when someone explains why the houses look the way they do.

A market can become a small adventure.

Food can become a conversation.

A walk through the countryside can be more memorable than visiting one more famous attraction.

I would not try to fill every hour.

Let the children stop and look around.

Let them ask questions.

And sometimes let them be bored for a little while too.

Keep the days shorter

One mistake families can make is trying to follow an adult itinerary.

You might be able to visit six places in one day.

That does not mean your children will enjoy visiting six places.

For a family, I prefer a day with one or two main experiences and enough time for lunch, rest and unexpected stops.

If everyone is tired by three o’clock, there is no prize for visiting another attraction.

Go back to the hotel.

Have a swim if there is a pool.

Have a quiet afternoon.

You can always continue tomorrow.

Food for children

Rice, noodles, eggs, chicken, fish, vegetables and fruit are usually easier choices for children.

If your child does not eat spicy food, ask for sambal or chilli separately.

Families with allergies should be particularly careful and explain the allergy clearly before ordering.

If your child has medication that they need regularly, bring enough for the whole trip rather than assuming you can find exactly the same product here.

I also recommend bringing some familiar snacks for the long journey from Makassar.

What should you pack?

For children, I would keep it simple:

  • comfortable shoes
  • a light rain jacket
  • one warm layer
  • sun protection
  • insect repellent
  • drinking water
  • familiar snacks
  • spare clothes
  • tissues and wet wipes
  • any regular medication
  • something small to keep them occupied during long drives

You don’t need to pack a suitcase full of special equipment.

Comfortable shoes are more important than expensive outdoor clothing.

A family trip should not feel like a school excursion

This is probably my biggest piece of advice.

Your children do not need to understand every part of Torajan culture.

They do not need to visit every famous place.

They do not need to enjoy everything that you enjoy.

Give them some choices.

Maybe one child is interested in food while another prefers mountains and villages. Maybe the parents want to visit a burial site while the children would rather stay somewhere else.

That is okay.

A private journey gives us the flexibility to adjust.

When I plan a family trip, I want to know the children’s ages, what they enjoy, how much walking they are comfortable with and whether there are any foods or cultural experiences they would prefer to avoid.

Then we can make a journey that works for the whole family.

Toraja is not a destination where you need to rush from one attraction to another.

Take your time.

Look around.

Ask questions.

Eat something local.

Talk to people.

That is often what children remember most.

— Diana

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